Monday, February 27, 2017

Cambodia : Part 14 - Day 4 Morning : Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Russian Market

21.01.2017 - After Choeung Ek Killing Fields, we were on our way to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. The Musuem is closer to town. I also realised, in Phnom Penh, the tuk-tuk drivers are covered as in the shade is longer, whereas in Siem Reap, the tuk-tuk drivers are not covered. I did not know what to expect from this place when I reached here. I have not researched much on the interior of the place. I thought it was a museum with lots of write-ups. Yes, it has a lot of write-ups and also includes photographs and skulls of the victims, and the actual torture mechanism.  



Entrance fees is USD6 /RM27 which includes the audio too.


The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (Khmer: សារមន្ទីរឧក្រិដ្ឋកម្មប្រល័យពូជសាសន៍ទួលស្លែង) is a museum in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The site is a former high school which was used as the notorious Security Prison 21 (S-21) by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979. Tuol Sleng (Khmer [tuəl slaeŋ]) means "Hill of the Poisonous Trees" or "Strychnine Hill". Tuol Sleng was one of at least 150 execution centers in the country, and about 20,000 prisoners were killed there. Source from Wikipedia.



Formerly the Chao Ponhea Yat High School, named after a royal ancestor of King Norodom Sihanouk, the five buildings of the complex were converted in August 1975, four months after the Khmer Rouge won the Cambodian Civil War, into a prison and interrogation center. The Khmer Rouge renamed the complex "Security Prison 21" (S-21) and construction began to adapt the prison to the inmates: the buildings were enclosed in electrified barbed wire, the classrooms converted into tiny prison and torture chambers, and all windows were covered with iron bars and barbed wire to prevent escapes.

From 1975 to 1979, an estimated 17,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng (some estimates suggest a number as high as 20,000, although the real number is unknown). At any one time, the prison held between 1,000–1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. In the early months of S-21's existence, most of the victims were from the previous Lon Nol regime and included soldiers, government officials, as well as academics, doctors, teachers, students, factory workers, monks, engineers, etc. Later, the party leadership's paranoia turned on its own ranks and purges throughout the country saw thousands of party activists and their families brought to Tuol Sleng and murdered.[2] Those arrested included some of the highest ranking communist politicians such as Khoy Thoun, Vorn Vet and Hu Nim. Although the official reason for their arrest was "espionage", these men may have been viewed by Khmer Rouge leader Pol Pot as potential leaders of a coup against him. Prisoners' families were often brought en masse to be interrogated and later executed at the Choeung Ek extermination center.

In 1979, the prison was uncovered by the invading Vietnamese army. In 1980, the prison was reopened by the government of the People's Republic of Kampuchea as a historical museum memorializing the actions of the Khmer Rouge regime. Source from Wikipedia.



There were 4 buildings in the compound. Each building has 3 floors. I walked into almost every room, every floor and every building. I felt cold in each room. I felt my hair standing. I felt the chill. My sister told me she felt the same too. There was no photography allowed inside these buildings. 


At the end of the 3 hour walk (which includes listening to every single narration from the audio), I was surprised and shocked beyond words to see Bou Meng, one of the 7 survivors from the Genocide. His friend, artist Vann Nath wrote a book and Bou Meng wrote the cover note. In the cover note, Bou Meng asked Duch (S21 prison director) on where did he killed his wife so he can perform his last prayers for her. Duch could not answer. Bou Meng cried. 

Out of an estimated 17,000 people imprisoned at Tuol Sleng, there were only seven known survivors. As of September 2011, only three of them are thought to be still alive: Chum Mey, Bou Meng, and Chim Math. All three were kept alive because they had skills their captors judged to be useful. Bou Meng, whose wife was killed in the prison, is an artist. Chum Mey was kept alive because of his skills in repairing machinery. Chim Math was held in S-21 for 2 weeks and transferred to the nearby Prey Sar prison. She may have been spared because she was from Stoeung district in Kampong Thom where Comrade Duch was born. She intentionally distinguished herself by emphasising her provincial accent during her interrogations. Vann Nath, who was spared because of his ability to paint, died on September 5, 2011. Source from Wikipedia.

I dare not approach Bou Meng. After seeing Choeung Ek Killing Field and S21 Prison, I could not bring myself to say anything to him. I have no idea what I should say to him. The book is being sold for USD10 each.



Then, we were on our way to Russian Market which was very close by.


Despite the name, the one thing you can’t buy at Phnom Penh’s Russian Market is a Russian. But for almost everything else, this warren of stalls has it covered. The market became popular with foreigners in the 1980s when most of its visitors were Soviets who lived in the area, hence the name. Since then, it’s become a regular on the Phnom Penh to-do list because, while it may be big, busy, hot and confusing to navigate, it’s also bursting with a huge profusion of goodies. Source from Travelfish.

We were here in the afternoon and the heat was overwhelming burning. It was crazy hot. But I read in a site that Russian Market is a must-place to visit. So, I ignored the heat, and did a 1-hour walk around the Market. I only bought a child's dress for my niece which has very nice colours. Her dress has the colours of a Paddle-Pop ice cream.










I got my coconut drink for USD1 / RM4.50. I love their huge coconuts. 


We got back to Mad Monkey Hostel and finally checked in. Our room has 2 beds for USD24. Therefore, USD8 / RM36 per person. Quite affordable, I believe. I chose this room because it fits 3 of us. It has air-cond, attached toilet (with water heater) and nice comfortable beds. I did not realise there was no window though, which made us slept till 9am the next day. It was still so dark, but I jumped when I saw - WHAT? 9AM! And that is when I realised, no window. 




No comments: