Prague: Part 2 - Day 2 Morning: Kutna Hora

Day 2 (Morning)
Here is a summary of what is spent on Day 2 Morning.

4/1 Day 2 Morning: Alqush Downtown Hotel --> Train to Kutna Hora Sedlec --> Bone Church (Sedlec Ossuary) --> Sedlec Cathedral --> Walk to town --> St Barbara's Cathedral --> Train back to Prague

Optional Costs

(A) Transport 
(1) Return train tickets to Kutna Hora CZK159.50

(B) Entrance fees
(1) Tickets to 3 churches CZK220
(2) Toilet fee outside St Barbara Church CZK10

(C) Food
(1) 4 clementines at Billa in the train station CZK17
(2) Lunch in a cafe in Kutna Hora CZK414 - Salmon sandwich CZK133, Mozarella and avocado sandwich CZK122, 2 latte CZK118, Service tax CZK41
(3) 3 chocolate bars at Albert in Kutna Hora CZK45

The Story

04012020 Morning: Today, we left the hotel at 7am. We walked to the main train station and bought the 8.04am train ticket to Kutna Hora. It is easy to navigate in the train station although it was difficult to find the entrance into the train station. We found a lift that brought us to the ground floor and ta-da, we found ourselves in the train station.

We followed this sign that says 'Tickets' and we found ourselves in front of the ticketing office. We got the domestic tickets to Kutna Hora Sedlec. One can buy tickets to Kutna Hora and walk to the bone church (takes about 45 minutes) but we did not know that and bought tickets to Kutna Hora Sedlec (takes about 5 minutes to walk to the bone church). We went to the information counter in the ticketing office and requested for the timetable for the return trains so we could estimate how long we can stay in the town. The lady at the information counter printed for us the timetable.

We went in to Billa which is their local grocery store and bought oranges for breakfast. We did not have the appetite to buy bread and we thought that we will treat ourselves to something sumptuous at Kutna Hora.

Fifteen minutes before the train arrived, the platform number appeared on the huge screen at the main hall in the train station. It showed 4S and we went to Platform 4. We assumed S was for South. It did not play any role because the train's information appeared on the sign on Platform 4.

Our train arrived right before 8.04am and it departed on the dot. As our tickets did not have assigned seat numbers, we walked in the train until we found an empty room. Each carriage has a few rooms and the ones that are reserved will have a paper stated 'reserved'. We sat in a room that was cold although it has a heater inside. I think the heater is broken. I had my winter jacket and gloves on during the entire 1 hour ride. During the train ride, no train conductor came to check our tickets. However, a staff came over with a trolley of sandwiches and drinks for sale. We did not buy.

The supposed heater that I am very sure, IS BROKEN.

We arrived at Kutna Hora and hurried to get the next train to Kutna Hora Sedlec because we have gotten the tickets to Kutna Hora Sedlec. As I wrote above, one can actually walk to the bone church from Kutna Hora station itself and it takes 45 minutes. I know that because we walked back to Kutna Hora station to get the train back to Prague. 

Our domestic train ride to Kutna Hora Sedlec. These trains are for trains within Kutna Hora. It is warm inside this train. It was just a 10 minute train ride from Kutna Hora to Kutna Hora Sedlec. In this train, there was a train conductor who came to punch our tickets.

The train arrived at Kutna Hora Sedlec at 9.13am. We walked towards the Information Center (less than 3 minutes to walk there) where we bought the tickets to 3 churches. One can choose from different ticket packages. Good marketing skills. There is an option to buy a ticket package for the bone church (Sedlec Ossuary) and Sedlec Cathedral only as they are closely located to one another, approximately 2 minutes' walk. St Barbara Cathedral is about a 40 minutes' walk from the bone church, which is why there is an option to not include this church. I did not regret getting the 3-ticket package because St. Barbara Cathedral was the most-worth-for-a-visit church compared to the other 2 churches.

The entrance to Sedlec Ossuary (bone church). I was excited when I saw the church because this is a UNESCO building. Some parts of the church were under restoration works. The church is very small. I stayed as long as I could to make my visit worth it but I stayed for 30 minutes only. We were lucky that we arrived early because right after we left the bone church to make our way to Sedlec Cathedral, we saw a large group of youngsters making their way to the bone church. 

According to legend, CLAY which was brought by the monks from Jerusalem was scattered at the Sedlec cemetery in 1278, thus making the cemetery the oldest “holy field“ in Central Europe and a sought-after burial ground. Over 30,000 were buried in Sedlec after the plague in 1318, with another 10,000 deceased finding their final resting place at the cemetery during the Hussite Wars. According to preserved sources, the Sedlec cemetery occupied an area of 35,000 m2. Most of the graves were abolished at the end of the 15th century. The EXHUMED SKELETAL REMAINS of approximately 40,000 deceased were stored in the church‘s lower chapel where, according to legend, a half-blind monk stacked them into large pyramids in 1511. Source from Destinace Kutna Hora.

The view from upstairs of Sedlec Ossuary (bone church). I like the tree.

Sedlec Cathedral which is 2-minutes' walk from Sedlec Ossuary (bone church). Sedlec Cathedral is located close to Kutna Hora Sedlec Station. This is also a UNESCO site.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady and St John the Baptist in Sedlec near Kutná Hora is a convent church of the former oldest Cistercian monastery in Bohemia (founded in 1142). Together with the Sedlec Ossuary, this church makes up a comprehensive complex of the oldest part of Kutná Hora. The cathedral was built in 1290 – 1320 and combines northern French Gothic cathedral architecture with German elements. Source from Destinace Kutna Hora.

Then, we made our way to St Barbara's Cathedral. It was located in town. We walked to town and the streets were empty. We wondered if it was because it was a Saturday. It was really quiet although it was 10am. Or maybe it is a bustling town during summer.

St. Barbara's Cathedral in the horizon. What a gorgeous view!

The cathedral is dedicated to Virgin Barbara, an early Christian martyr, invoked as a helper in need, an intercessor for a good death, and a patron of all who carry on a dangerous occupation, especially miners. And it was in fact miners who contributed the most to the medieval town‘s blossoming as well as to the construction of the cathedral, which they dedicated to their holy protectress. Source from Destinace Kutna Hora.

The annoying uphill walk to the entrance of the church. There was another way which is much easier but we chose this way instead where there were no one else. Haha!

The majestic St. Barbara's Cathedral which is also a UNESCO heritage site.

The view from St. Barbara's Cathedral.

We had lunch at a random cafe in the town's square. We tried to look for a cafe that has other customers but it was hard to find. We had sandwiches for lunch. They were not filling but we were saving space for food that we are planning to get at the Christmas market in Prague. I think I am beginning to adopt the Swedish lifestyle of drinking coffee because I looked forward to having a cup of coffee in the cafe.

The huge Christmas tree in the very-empty square.

On our way back to Kutna Hora train station, we went inside a grocery store called Albert and saw beers being sold in 1.5 litres, similar to carbonated bottles!

Here we are, back at Kutna Hora train station and we boarded the 1pm train which is got us back at Prague by 1.50pm. The rooms in the train, this time, are warm. We could not find any empty rooms so we put ourselves in a random room that has empty seats. Some passengers did not have any seats and were seen walking around the corridor. There were no train conductors that came to check our tickets. How odd!