Shangri-la : Part 5 - Altitude Sickness to Daocheng

23 Oct 2012 : We woke up early to start our drive towards Daocheng. It was an estimated distance of 220km. When I woke up, I saw that the door to the corridor was locked. That is surprising. Safety is very important.  

One of the panes at the toilet door is broken. I did not feel comfortable using the toilet. It feels 'airy'. Haha!

By 6.30am, we were all ready to leave the hotel. This hotel is guarded by the police, and so it's quite safe actually, although located at the far end of the street.

After an hour in the van, we had to get down to walk as the van could not go up further. It was terrible having to walk in the cold and we walked very slowly uphill. The bumpy rocky road made the ride slower, and I soon learn that the van has to accelerate to go uphill, and if attempt to go slow, the engine will die. The van managed to go uphill, and stopped at a flat place for us to get back in.

We reached the highest pass for the day at 4718m. It was difficult walking out to snap a photo. I was breathing really heavily. I walked as slowly as I could from the van to the rock. 

Then, the van faced difficulties again. Out we go for a walk. By then, I was having headaches. I knew what was happening to me. I was experiencing high altitude sickness. And I had not taken its medication, Diamox for this trip, as I thought we were just passing through these high areas, never considering that the vehicle will stall and we had to walk. The sickness was still bearable. I could still talk and laugh. I tried to shift my mind away from my headache.

Then, we had to come out from the van again for the 4th time for the day. This time, I did not join my friends as the headaches spread around the top of my head. I could feel the throbs. Also, I was feeling nauseous. I was scared that the aches will spread to the below part of my head. I remembered the guide in Nepal telling us that it is fatal that if the sickness spreads to the below, and it means you have to go to lower ground immediately. I was so thankful that the aches did not spread to the below.

It was quite a distance from where the van stopped to wait for them to join us. Suddenly, a pick-up stopped next to us. It turns out my friend had stopped the pick-up while walking back. My friend told the driver that they will meet us at the next town. So, there were 3 of the group who joined them. The other 3 sat in the van.

We stopped quite a number of times along the way. The driver explained that his vehicle was computerised and once it reaches its threshold, it's difficult to start. I have no idea how true is that.

At here, the high altitude sickness became worst. I was weak. On the verge of vomitting. While the van was being tweaked about, I opened the door to get some fresh air, hoping the nausea will go away. I swallowed a Diamox pill but I know it was not going to help. Because Diamox pill needs to be taken 2 days before.

Finally, the van was able to move smoothly. We stopped to snap a photo of the river. We were out from the high altitude area, and I was moving about happily. Opposite the river was a holy place with prayer flags. And upon snapping the photo of the holy place, I vomited lots of water and bile. I can't believe I vomited in front of the holy place. High altitude sickness = one time experience. Right after that, I was diligent in taking the medication. 

Soon, we were in the next town. My friends had smartly placed themselves in the police station. They had called up the travel agent to explain about the vehicle and the number of walks we had to do, and as a compensation, our rooms for the night were upgraded.

We were back on the road and we were told that we shall reach Daocheng soon. Unfortunately, our journey was stalled for a bit due to road works. There was no path for the vehicles to go through and a tractor was digging and flattening a pathway on the right.

Finally, at 5.30pm, we reached our Hotel in Daocheng (3750m above sea level). We stayed in Xibore Hotel. The rate was quite expensive but I was informed that it's possible to negotiate (it's best if you get a local to do it for you), and it will be cheaper if you booked in advance. The rates are for walk-ins. We were not sure what was our initial hotel, and so we are not too sure how can we compare the upgrade.

We got a room with 3 beds. The toilet looks good, but we realised that one cannot throw toilet paper into the toilet bowl, as it will clog up. Because ours clogged up. 

This is the view from our hotel bedroom.

That night, I had half a bowl of porridge. I did not have any appetite at all. And slept off immediately. The headache was there, but less throbbing. I hoped badly that my headaches will go away tomorrow, because we were heading to Yading, the place nicknamed 'Shangri-la'.